Aug
2
2010
GETTIN’ DIRTY with the Garden Goddesses…
By Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis
We’re all still enjoying the summer, but time is rapidly passing (much too rapidly) and soon it will be fall. Fall is the time of year when many of us think of planting daffodils and narcissus, tulips, crocus, hyacinths and many other bulbs so that we can enjoy their colorful blooms in the early spring.
In this area, since we are warmer than many bulbs prefer, it helps to give several varieties a “winter chill” by placing them in the refrigerator (not the freezer) for four to eight weeks before planting outside in late October thru’ December after the soil cools down. Bulbs that benefit from this treatment include tulips, crocus, muscari, and hyacinths. Most other of the best known bulbs (lilies, daffodils and narcissus, iris, anemones and freesias) can be planted without this cooling procedure.
Many of the lesser known bulbs do very well in our area because of our more moderate temperatures. Watsonia, ranunculus, amaryllis belladonna (naked ladies), ixia, sparaxis and alliums would freeze in climates where tulips thrive, but they do great here! Daffodils and narcissus (Earlene’s favorite) and bearded iris (Cyndi’s favorites) are among the favorites for this area, because the deer usually don’t eat them, and they naturalize beautifully in our wet winter/dry summer climate. Some of the other fun bulbs we get that you might not see in the neighbor’s yard are galanthus, puschkinia, fritillaria, chionodoxa and triteleia. Come in later this month and take a look at what we have – it’s so much fun!
The bulbs that don’t require chilling are better planted in late summer to early fall so that their root systems begin to grow while the soil temperature is warmer. Fall blooming crocus, like saffron crocus and colchicum, as well as lycoris and naked ladies really want to be planted in late August or early September.
Don’t forget to amend the planting area or pot with a soil amendment and bulb fertilizer! The bulbs don’t really need it now, but after they are done blooming, it will be there for the roots to absorb for the next season’s bloom. Be sure not to cut down the old foliage too soon either, because that is the way bulbs replenish themselves for the next season.
For now, fall is right around the corner, and as the weather cools, it’s a great time to get out and have fun in your garden!!
Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis can be found at Eisley Nursery in Auburn, 380 Nevada St., 530-885-5163.
Jun
29
2010
By Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis
OMG!! Suddenly the heat is here, and now we have to think about summer garden maintenance and watering. We could talk all day about watering, which is about 90% of the problem in our gardens, so let’s talk about other summer issues first, and then go back to watering.
Now is the time to think about doing light summer pruning on roses and fruit trees, and other ornamentals which will otherwise get out of control. Look at the plant at question: remove growth which is too long or tall; is criss-crossing other branches; or in trees, is too low for convenience or safety. Clean up snow and frost damage from the past winter if you haven’t already. Don’t get too vigorous or you will stimulate too much weak new growth, but this is a good time to do some limited pruning. In fruit trees, you can prune to let light into the interior, and help fruit ripen quicker. You might also put out scare tape or net to protect your ripening crops.
For lawns and shrubs, this is a good time to apply a dose of iron – Master Nursery Iron Plus granules or Master Nursery Chelated Iron liquid will green up your lawn, groundcovers and shrubs without danger of burning in the heat. For annuals and vegetables, it is important to fertilize regularly (full strength monthly, or half-strength every 2 weeks) for a generous production of flowers and vegetables. But be sure to water before you fertilize – never fertilize or spray a plant with any pesticide when it is water-stressed or dry.
This of course, brings us back to watering. There is no specific rule as to how much or how often to water – it all depends on the weather (of course), the specific plant needs, and your soil, drainage, location and method of watering. Deep watering is important for almost all plants, and daily watering is usually necessary only in new plantings and containers. Generally, most of your established garden plants and lawn will be best with a deep soak 2-3 times a week. Established drought-tolerant plants, and older trees and shrubs may only need a very deep, slow soak 2-3 times during the entire summer, assuming winter rains have provided sufficient water for them to soak up over the cool months.
As you can see, there is still stuff to do in the garden, but save it for the morning or the evening when you can enjoy your time in the garden! Come in and see us if you have any problems or questions, because we want you to be successful and have fun in your yard!
Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis can be found at Eisley Nursery in Auburn, 380 Nevada St., 530-885-5163.
| 
Comments Off
Comments Off Jun
2
2010
Water gardens are a celebration of beauty and serenity whether in a landscape or a small water feature on a porch or deck. Additionally, they provide a unique habitat for wildlife, fish, birds and insects. We have just had a new pond and fountain constructed as a demonstration garden by Cascade Gardens. It is a beautiful example of a medium sized water feature, but you can have a simple water garden in a pot or wine barrel in a small yard or on a patio. You can also have a larger water feature if you have the space and interest. In our front yard patio we also have two water features designed and installed by Pond Pro, which will give you some additional ideas.
Many groups of plants go directly in or around a pond or water feature. These include the oxygenators, the floating aquatics, the flowering aquatics, the marginals, and the bog or marsh plants. Grasses and ferns also look good in a water-scape, and for larger areas, there are wetland trees and shrubs which give a natural look to a stream or pond. In our water plant area, you will see a nice selection of plants in all of these groups.
Generally when you are water gardening, it is wise to keep plants which will be placed into the water in a container and to use a medium for planting that is designed for use in a pond. Many water plants can be invasive it they are allowed to roam freely.
While water gardening requires a little help and research, as well as routine maintenance, the relaxing and peaceful sounds of running water are certainly worth a little effort. Start on a small scale and see how easy it really is!
Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis can be found at Eisley Nursery in Auburn, 380 Nevada St., 530-885-5163.
|
Comments Off
Comments Off Apr
3
2010
The past couple of weeks we have been bombarded with questions of how to prepare the soil for your flowers and vegetables, as well as how to plant larger plants such as trees and shrubs. Although there are some differences depending on what you are planting (for example acid lovers as compared to general flowers), there are some basics that remain the same no matter what you are planting.
Most of us have poor soil in the foothills, requiring the addition of organic materials, such as compost, mulch, manures, leaf mold, peat moss, etc. All of these add nutrients and texture to the soil, making it easier for the soil to hold water, oxygen and nutrients for the plants to use, and also making it drain better.
As you prepare to plant, the first thing you usually do is dig the hole – be sure to test your hole for good drainage. Fill the hole once with water, let it drain; then fill the hole again and see how fast it drains the second time. If it isn’t empty in 6-8 hours, find another place for your plant, or figure out how to create a drain for the water. Another option is to use raised beds or containers, or plant on a mound if drainage may be an issue in your yard.
Next add your amendments to your pile of native soil (assuming you have something besides a pile of rock excavated from your hole). Generally add ¼ to 1/3 amendments to 2/3 or ¾ of native soil. As mentioned before, this can be homemade compost, manures, mulch products or a planting mix. The idea is to provide the plant with a well-draining mixture which will also still hold water, air and nutrients long enough for the plant to absorb.
Finally, a plant, like any other living thing, needs nutrients or food, as well as a nice place to live, with air and water. So it is ideal to work in some nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N-P-K) into the soil mix as you prepare your planting area. Other nutrients, such as calcium or iron, are also important to some plants, so use fertilizers suited to your specific plants. Whether you use organic, organic-based or processed fertilizers, your plant will benefit from some kind of food. A plant will absorb the food best if it is worked into the soil, since some nutrients do not leach through the soil with water, but must be broken down by soil organisms, such as worms and insects.
Soil preparation can be done when we plant; or if you are working in organic products such as manures, preparation can be done a few days or even weeks ahead of your actual planting time. So if you must get out and do something besides pull weeds, start working some amendments into your garden area, and let the worms and soil micro-organisms begin their work.
|
Comments Off
Comments Off Feb
28
2010
March comes in like a lion and out like a lamb, or so the old saying goes. But when we think of March we think of St. Patrick’s Days and shamrocks and potatoes – Yes! March is potato planting time. If you haven’t ever eaten garden grown potatoes, you will be having a real treat the first time you taste yours straight from the garden – they are sweeter and moister and more flavorful that store-bought, just like every other vegetable or fruit you get straight from the garden.
It’s best to choose potatoes that are certified seed potatoes, or to save healthy potatoes from your garden for replanting. Grocery store potatoes have often been treated to retard sprouting and therefore will not be vigorous, as well as having no guarantee of being disease free. Potatoes from the farmer’s market or an organic supplier may not have been treated to retard sprouting, but they are also not certified as disease free, so you could inadvertently bring problems into your garden.
Potatoes are planted in this area in the early spring, when the soil temperature is between 55-70°F. If you plant too early, the tubers may rot in cold, wet soil, or the tops may get damaged by frost, reducing the vigor and production of the plant. They prefer an acid soil (pH of 5.5-6.5) that is good draining, rich and fertile, so in Auburn that means add well-aged organic matter. Don’t use fresh manures, and use gypsum instead of lime to provide calcium. Foliar feed during the growing season with fish emulsion or kelp works well, but quit feeding once the plants begin blooming. Occasional thorough watering may be necessary, but let the soil dry out between watering, and keep the weeds under control.
You can begin harvesting “new” potatoes when you see the plants beginning to bloom by carefully hand digging out the baby tubers. Harvest the big guys after the foliage dies down – if it refuses to die, cut the vine off, wait a couple weeks, and carefully dig out your bounty.
Be sure to get our handout with more specifics regarding planting, cutting and drying your seed pieces and “hilling up” your plants. Potatoes are a fun and easy crop to try. If you’re Irish, make it a tradition to plant on St. Paddy’s Day. And if you really love your potatoes, you can save some from your spring planting, and plant a fall crop in August, just when you’re pulling up those worn out zucchini plants!
|
Comments Off
Comments Off Feb
1
2010
By Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis
With the continued interest in growing our own food, and also the continued economic problems, we thought we’d consider edible plants that also have value in the landscape – Rosalind Creasy, as early as 1982, called it ‘foodscaping.’ Many of the plants that have edible crops also are useful as ornamental plants. Consider fruit trees which also provide shade in the summer and a beautiful show of blossoms in the spring, and then oblige us by dropping their leaves to let the winter sun shine through for warmth during the cooler days.
Of our favorites, peaches such as Double Jewel and Red Baron, which have gorgeous blossoms and delicious fruit, are wonderful. Persimmons can provide winter interest as the ripening fruit hangs on the tree late into the fall. Citrus trees are evergreen and generally smaller, so they make a great container plant on a porch or deck, where they may be given a little protection during the cold weather. The blossoms are fragrant and pretty, and the fruit is both tasty and ornamental. Pears and apples lend themselves to ‘espalier’ training along a fence or wall, taking up little space but making a very decorative statement in the garden. Some of the plants we get in have five or six varieties (one branch each) on one tree already trained into espalier form – how fun is that!!
But as you are planning your ‘foodscape’ take into consideration the foods you and your family really eats often and enjoy – it’s much more beneficial to plant nectarines if that’s what you really like to eat, rather than cherries which you may not even want (or which may not do well at your elevation). Also, some plants require more care, water, pruning, preserving, etc. than others, so think about how much effort you are prepared to put into the whole project.
Many herbs are ornamental, as well as edible and relatively care free. While we often think of rosemary, salvia and lavender as landscape plants, we can also use strawberries, chamomile, thyme and mints as multi-purpose groundcovers. Or how about growing a bay tree in a pot on the patio?
Some of our favorite edibles are multi-purpose vines such as grapes, kiwi and hops. These can be used on a trellis for shade or along a fence for privacy, the same way you would use other flowering vines. Or how about a privacy hedge of some raspberries – no sane person is going to climb through that, and you can enjoy some nice fruit as a bonus!
So take a fresh look at your landscape and see if you can get a double-whammy – food and good looks from the same plant. It’s a great way to maximize space, eat healthy, and enjoy your yard in a whole new way!!
|
Comments Off
Comments Off Jan
5
2010
By Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis
It’s nice to know we’re on the ‘longer day’ side of winter, meaning that after December 21st the days gradually begin getting longer and the nights get shorter – yahoo! More time for us to spend in the yard! And January is the time we begin thinking about planting bare root crops – fruit and nut trees, berries, grapes, some ornamental trees and some perennial vegetables. But this month we’ll focus on grapes.
Grapes are great vines which can be used as an ornamental, providing shade growing up an arbor or trellis, or providing a living fence along a garden or property line. They are also a delicious fruit, useful for drying (raisins), eating fresh, canning for jams and jellies, and (of course) wines. The nice thing about the main varieties carried in nurseries is that they are self-fruitful, and do not cross pollinate. So you can mix up your selections, depending on how you plan to use your crop – plant some for wine and some for canning, or select seedless table grapes and a variety for raisins. How fun is that!!
Grapes are generally divided into three types – European, American and hybrid varieties. In our area, the European varieties generally perform best. They are usually cold hardy to about 5°F, although buds are damaged at about 20°F and some damage can occur to greenwood/new growth at 32°F. Early fall freezes can damage fruit on late harvested varieties if we have a bad year. But, hey, we live in the foothills, and sometimes Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate – darn her anyway. Take a chance, and most years we can get a good harvest, especially if you grow more than one variety. American varieties and some of the hybrids are better for shorter growing season (think higher elevations, up to about 3300 ft. el.), and are generally immune to mildews, a nice point. All varieties need some winter chill, which is usually not a problem here.
The varieties that we generally carry are ones that we anticipate will perform well in our soils and climate – for table grapes, try Black Monukka, Flame Seedless, Perlette, Thompson Seedless or Canadice. For wine grapes, try Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Pinot Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. For canning we carry both Eastern Concord and California Concord (Pierce) which are American varieties. For raisins, Thompson Seedless and Muscat of Alexandria are the most common in California although other varieties can be dried as well. As you can see, the only limit to your vineyard is your imagination. So come in and get growing – grapes arrive any day now!!
Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis can be found at Eisley Nursery in Auburn, 380 Nevada St., 530-885-5163.
TABLE/RAISIN VARIETIES
BLACK MONUKKA (seedless)
CANADICE (seedless)
CONCORD ‘EASTERN’
CONCORD ‘CALIFORNIA’
CRIMSON (seedless)
FLAME (seedless)
GOLDEN MUSCAT
LADYFINGER
MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA
PERLETTE (seedless)
THOMPSON (seedless)
WINE VARIETIES
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
MERLOT
PINOT CHARDONNAY
PINOT NOIR
SHIRAZ
ZINFANDEL
|
Comments Off
Comments Off Dec
5
2009
GETTIN’ DIRTY with the Garden Goddesses…
By Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis
Who says its winter and there’s nothing to do in the garden and nothing to plant – Not US!! Bare root season is beginning, and we’ve already received shipments of asparagus, artichokes and berries, and we expect horseradish, rhubarbs and hops (oh my!) any day now. Those last three are ones that we don’t talk about too often so we thought we would- right here, right now.
Rhubarb is traditionally thought of as a cold climate crop, but you can grow it here. Rhubarb needs a winter chill of below 40°F, which we get here in the foothills. Altho’ it doesn’t like our hot summers, it will simply go dormant when we get above 90°F; the danger would be trying to keep it watered and growing, when it is better to simply let it go dormant as it wants. Divisions are available now, and should be planted in rich, slightly acidic soil, in a location which will get afternoon shade in the summer. Plant about 3-4 ft. apart. Crowns are better if planted slightly above ground, rather than too deep. Don’t harvest the first year, and remember when you do begin to harvest, only eat the stalks – the leaf is highly toxic. Since rhubarb is a perennial, remember to plant it in an area that won’t be rototilled or disturbed every year – then enjoy your rhubarb pie!
Another perennial, a spicy favorite to accompany your prime rib, is horseradish. This plant also prefers cooler climates than we enjoy here but it can be grown in this area. Just remember that it can be very weedy and invasive if you’re not careful. To avoid this problem, you can grow horseradish in a large container, or simply place it in an area where a little wildness will not overrun your garden. For the best flavor, grow horseradish as an annual, planting in the fall or winter, letting it grow and size up, and then harvesting all the roots after the first fall frosts. It you want to let it naturalize, you may sacrifice size and flavor. Be sure to give the roots a rich soil, regular water and maybe some afternoon shade in the summer.
Finally, hops are a vigorous and unusual vine to try in your garden. The root cuttings are normally planted on mounds or hills, and trained up sturdy cages or trellises; vines grow 15-25’ tall. Hops prefer full sun, good drainage and loamy soil; remember this is a deciduous vine, and will need to be cut to the ground in the late fall or winter. Hops are used to flavor beer, but the vine can make a great ornamental plant as well, shading an arbor or creating a tunnel over a walkway. The female plant produces the hop or ‘cone’ used to flavor beer, but even if you aren’t making beer you can enjoy this plant. Or maybe you know someone who would come help harvest your crop and share some of their brew!
Don’t be afraid to try something new or different! There are lots of fun and tasty plants out there waiting for us to try, so maybe you have a corner in your yard (or an empty pot) where you can experiment this year!
Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis can be found at Eisley Nursery in Auburn, 380 Nevada St., 530-885-5163.
|
Comments Off
Comments Off Nov
15
2009
GETTINí DIRTY with the Garden Goddesses
By Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis
With the holidays rapidly approaching, we thought it would be fun to offer a variety of opportunities for you all to come and explore how easy it is to make some gifts for your friends and families this year. So we have set up a series of Make a Gift classes for November and December.
These classes are offered free, but we do request that you sign up ahead of time.
Starting the lineup at 2:00 p.m. on Saturday Nov. 7, Cyndi will demonstrate how to plant and force bulbs for the holidays, both for yourself and to give as gifts. Several bulbs make suitable holiday gifts and decorations, and are very easy to prepare.
On the following Saturday, Nov. 14 at 2:00 p.m. Earlene will show how to plant a unique pot with several pockets, a Plantopia. Possibilities for the fun project include herbs, flowers, or a salad garden.
Then on Saturday Nov. 21, at 2:00 p.m. Pamela Rohde, a Master Food Preserver, will share her knowledge of making and canning apple butter. Apples will be provided, but space will be limited so be sure to sign up early for this one.
On Saturday, Dec. 5 at 2:00 p.m. Warehouse Bob will be conducting the popular stepping stone class. Everyone will be able to create their own stone. Supplies and some decorations will be provided, but for a truly personal creation, you can bring your own items to imbed in your stone. Again, space is limited for this class, so be sure to sign up early.
On Sunday Dec. 6 at 2:00 p.m. Earlene will be creating some unique gift baskets, and offering assistance to those of you who want to create a special gift for someone. Baskets can include flowers, books, gardening paraphernalia, veggies, poinsettias, seeds or anything else that seems fun. And you can use items other than baskets ñ think of filling pots, watering cans, or gift bags with fun stuff.
And finally, last but not least, on Saturday Dec. 12 at 2:00 p.m., Dorothy will be offering suggestions for planting containers. Maybe you have been wanting to make an herb window box or a cactus dish garden for someone special. Now is your chance to get some help from a pro!
We hope, with our assistance, you will have a great holiday season, and also have lots of fun making some unique gifts for those you love. We hope you can join us for some of these classes , see you soon!!
Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis can be found at Eisley Nursery in Auburn, 380 Nevada St., 530-885-5163.
|
Comments Off
Comments Off Oct
1
2009
By Earlene Eisley-Freeman and Cyndi Davis
Altho’ there are many fun topics to talk about when we get together to discuss gardening, the recent fire that destroyed numerous homes and businesses in North Auburn triggers the discussion about landscaping our homes and businesses with fire prevention and resistance in mind.
“FireScaping” is the concept of using fire resistant and fire retardant plants in the landscape in combination with other practices to protect our homes and families in the event of a wild fire. Plants alone cannot protect our homes, but in combination with good maintenance and other preventative and protective measures, proper plant selection can increase the chances that our homes will be the ones to survive a blaze such as the one that whipped through Auburn last month. Plant selection is the third most important thing to protect your home after roof choice and preventive maintenance.
Plants are rated based on ‘ignitability’, how quickly the plant will ignite when exposed to flames; ‘sustainability’, the amount of fuel a plant contains and how long it can keep burning; and ‘combustibility’, the amount of heat the plant is capable of producing as it burns.
Based on these factors, it is possible to select plants on the fire zone system. Zone 1 is the area closest to your home, usually about a radius of 30 feet. Zone 2 is the next area out, the greenbelt and firebreak area, begins from 30 out to 100 or up to 200 feet from the house depending on topography, slope and other hazards. Zone 3 and Zone 4 extend further away from the house. Many lists of plants exist giving suggested plants for each zone.
Altho’ plant selection can be critical in reducing the danger to your home, proper maintenance is also critical. Thinning trees and shrubs to eliminate “fire ladders”, removing dead and dying plants, keeping plantings irrigated properly, and other similar practices can also mean the difference between your home burning or not burning. It is also important to make sure emergency vehicles have sufficient room to maneuver on your property to make your home ‘savable’, and to prune back plants along your driveway and private road to make sure your vehicles and emergency vehicles can get through safely.
There are many resources available for you to review when planning a defensible home and yard. Come in and talk to us anytime – we love to help!!